Connect the hose to the drain tube as shown in the photo below. It is located at the front of the engine and can be accessed from the front passenger side wheel well. I put three or four ounces of Sea Foam in the fuel bowl before I put in the new filter. Install the new fuel filter and replace the cap. I replaced my fuel filter and wrote up how I did it here. The photo below shows where the fuel filter housing drain terminates. If you are experiencing issues with fuel delivery, check the fuel filter.
Drain the fuel into a suitable container as shown below. The very first step is to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. These can be had at any auto parts store. Good luck hope this helped. Use Red Line or Amsoil fuel additive for additional lubrication and conditioning the fuel.
Use the turkey baster to suck the fuel out of the assembly. Try not to tip it too much because there's still some gas in it. It saves on removal damage and really allows consistent re-tightening. If it is dirty or clogged, it should be replaced. I show it this way so it will show up in the photo.
The only problem is that the electronic display in Wal Mart that tells you which filter you need tells you the wrong one! Then I relieved the pressure by pressing the button on the gauge and the fuel ran out of the plastic tube. With the Redline if you use 2 oz. Be sure and fit the new fuel filter onto the inside flange of the cover before re-installing. Your fuel filter is located between your fuel pump and fuel inlet. Next step is to unhook this clip by simply pushing it toward the filter, then rotating it clockwise.
Just connect a three or four foot piece of hose to the tube and then the fuel filter housing can be drained of diesel fuel. Now on to the filter. Below are the instructions that came with the filter. I actually find that this works better than the strap wrench. You might even have what it takes to perform this minor maintenance procedure at home. So, I checked the filter they recommend for a V10 and it said the G3850. Note how dirty it is.
Lubricate the o-ring and put it on the new filter. My Dad has a fuel pressure gauge, so I borrowed it for this job. Once you have waited out that half of a minute or so, feel free to try your new filter out on the road. It filters sediment and debris from the fuel to keep your fuel injectors or carburetor jets from clogging. It is an easy and basic process that you could do yourself.
Since the fuel pressure gauge was already hooked up, I decided to start the truck and check my fuel pressure at idle. Start the truck and check for leaks. Make sure you tighten it down securely, as I've had fuel come spraying out when I didn't tighten it down sufficiently. Once satisfied that there are no leaks, start the engine and let it run for a couple more minutes while continuing to check for leaks. Remove the filtering elemnet and install the new one. That's it, good for another 15,000 miles. The 30 wt has been thel choice for my 7.
This will energize the fuel pump and allow you to check for leaks. Drain the fuel filter housing at least every 5k and don't go over 20k for the filter. This article applies to the Ford F-250 and F-350 2005-2014. Your fuel drain is immediately in front of the fuel filter, and you should ensure to drain a little periodically--check your owner's manual for that. Open the water separator drain on the lower fuel filter housing, draining into at least a gallon sized container. I have a 1997 F-250 Power Stroke, so it should be the same.